A new performance threshold in sport climbing: A change in how climbing trainers work?

Bergua-Gómez, P. ; Gomez-Bruton, A. (Universidad de Zaragoza) ; Casajús, J.A. (Universidad de Zaragoza) ; Montero-Marin, J.

Resumen: Objectives: Previous research has shown that the finger flexor's occlusion threshold (OT) could be different among sport climbers when expressed as a percentage of their maximum finger force (OT%), and that there is no association between the OT% and the climberś ability level. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the possible association between the relative finger force applied at the OT% (rff-OT%) and climbing ability level. Equipment and methods: WWe approximated the finger flexor's OT of 34 sport climbers by finger hang endurance test analyses at different intensities between 35% and 85% of their individual maximum finger force on a previously individually adapted edge depth, and we valued their rff-OT% as the relative force they could perform at that intensity. Results: We found a high correlation between the rff-OT% and climbing ability in elite climbers. These findings suggest that having an OT at the highest possible percentage is critical, in addition to having a high relative finger force, as this would enable climbers to express relative force at a wider range of intensities with favorable metabolic conditions.

Idioma: Inglés

DOI: 10.1016/j.scispo.2022.01.004

Año: 2022

Publicado en: Science and Sports 37, 7 (2022), 656-658
ISSN: 0765-1597

Factor impacto JCR: 1.1 (2022)

Categ. JCR: SPORT SCIENCES rank: 80 / 87 = 0.92 (2022) - Q4 - T3

Factor impacto CITESCORE: 1.4 - Medicine (Q3)

Factor impacto SCIMAGO: 0.28 - Orthopedics and Sports Medicine (Q3) - Sports Science (Q4)

Financiación: info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/ES/ISCIII/CP21-00080

Tipo y forma: Artículo (Versión definitiva)

Área (Departamento): Área Educación Física y Depor. (Dpto. Fisiatría y Enfermería)