000112419 001__ 112419
000112419 005__ 20230519145350.0
000112419 0247_ $$2doi$$a10.1080/17461391.2020.1827047
000112419 0248_ $$2sideral$$a121145
000112419 037__ $$aART-2021-121145
000112419 041__ $$aeng
000112419 100__ $$aBergua, P.
000112419 245__ $$aThe finger flexors occlusion threshold in sport-climbers: an exploratory study on its indirect approximation
000112419 260__ $$c2021
000112419 5060_ $$aAccess copy available to the general public$$fUnrestricted
000112419 5203_ $$aBlood flow partially determines specific climbing endurance (SCE) as it mediates oxygen bio-availability in the finger flexors. Blood flow is related to occlusion threshold (OT), which is defined as the contraction intensity at which intramuscular pressure exceeds perfusion blood pressure resulting in the cessation of local blood flow. The OT is represented as an inflection point on a force-time graph when isometric force is registered and applied through maximal and continuous tests. Endurance time (ET) to exhaustion is influenced by the relative isometric applied force and is different for each climber. The aim of this study was to explore whether an approximation of the finger flexors OT in sport climbers through records of ET to exhaustion at different isometric relative intensities was possible. We measured maximum finger hang ETs at 6 intensities ranging from 85% to 35% maximal force in 34 sport climbers of advanced and elite level. The values obtained were analysed by two different methods in an attempt to determine a change in the shape of the curve in the intensity-ET relationship graphs that approximated the OT for each climber. The results suggest that the finger flexors OT could be different among climbers, regardless of their strength and ability level. The presented methods do not accurately reflect the OT, but could indicate the intensity at which blood flow is restored in the active muscles. This is the first study to indirectly approximate the finger flexors OT in sport-climbers, a parameter that could be essential to assess SCE.
000112419 540__ $$9info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess$$aAll rights reserved$$uhttp://www.europeana.eu/rights/rr-f/
000112419 590__ $$a3.98$$b2021
000112419 592__ $$a1.182$$b2021
000112419 594__ $$a6.9$$b2021
000112419 591__ $$aSPORT SCIENCES$$b24 / 88 = 0.273$$c2021$$dQ2$$eT1
000112419 593__ $$aMedicine (miscellaneous)$$c2021$$dQ1
000112419 593__ $$aSports Science$$c2021$$dQ1
000112419 593__ $$aOrthopedics and Sports Medicine$$c2021$$dQ1
000112419 655_4 $$ainfo:eu-repo/semantics/article$$vinfo:eu-repo/semantics/acceptedVersion
000112419 700__ $$aMontero-Marin, J.
000112419 700__ $$0(orcid)0000-0002-0520-1640$$aGomez-Bruton, A.$$uUniversidad de Zaragoza
000112419 700__ $$0(orcid)0000-0002-7215-6931$$aCasajús, J.A.$$uUniversidad de Zaragoza
000112419 7102_ $$11006$$2245$$aUniversidad de Zaragoza$$bDpto. Fisiatría y Enfermería$$cÁrea Educación Física y Depor.
000112419 773__ $$g21, 9 (2021), 1234-1242$$pEur. j. sports sci.$$tEuropean Journal of Sport Science$$x1746-1391
000112419 8564_ $$s953280$$uhttps://zaguan.unizar.es/record/112419/files/texto_completo.pdf$$yPostprint
000112419 8564_ $$s983563$$uhttps://zaguan.unizar.es/record/112419/files/texto_completo.jpg?subformat=icon$$xicon$$yPostprint
000112419 909CO $$ooai:zaguan.unizar.es:112419$$particulos$$pdriver
000112419 951__ $$a2023-05-18-13:26:29
000112419 980__ $$aARTICLE