000118279 001__ 118279
000118279 005__ 20240319081018.0
000118279 0247_ $$2doi$$a10.1016/j.scispo.2022.01.004
000118279 0248_ $$2sideral$$a129556
000118279 037__ $$aART-2022-129556
000118279 041__ $$aeng
000118279 100__ $$aBergua-Gómez, P.
000118279 245__ $$aA new performance threshold in sport climbing: A change in how climbing trainers work?
000118279 260__ $$c2022
000118279 5060_ $$aAccess copy available to the general public$$fUnrestricted
000118279 5203_ $$aObjectives: Previous research has shown that the finger flexor's occlusion threshold (OT) could be different among sport climbers when expressed as a percentage of their maximum finger force (OT%), and that there is no association between the OT% and the climberś ability level. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the possible association between the relative finger force applied at the OT% (rff-OT%) and climbing ability level. Equipment and methods: WWe approximated the finger flexor's OT of 34 sport climbers by finger hang endurance test analyses at different intensities between 35% and 85% of their individual maximum finger force on a previously individually adapted edge depth, and we valued their rff-OT% as the relative force they could perform at that intensity. Results: We found a high correlation between the rff-OT% and climbing ability in elite climbers. These findings suggest that having an OT at the highest possible percentage is critical, in addition to having a high relative finger force, as this would enable climbers to express relative force at a wider range of intensities with favorable metabolic conditions.
000118279 536__ $$9info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/ES/ISCIII/CP21-00080
000118279 540__ $$9info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess$$aby$$uhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/es/
000118279 590__ $$a1.1$$b2022
000118279 592__ $$a0.28$$b2022
000118279 591__ $$aSPORT SCIENCES$$b80 / 87 = 0.92$$c2022$$dQ4$$eT3
000118279 593__ $$aOrthopedics and Sports Medicine$$c2022$$dQ3
000118279 593__ $$aSports Science$$c2022$$dQ4
000118279 594__ $$a1.4$$b2022
000118279 655_4 $$ainfo:eu-repo/semantics/article$$vinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
000118279 700__ $$0(orcid)0000-0002-0520-1640$$aGomez-Bruton, A.$$uUniversidad de Zaragoza
000118279 700__ $$0(orcid)0000-0002-7215-6931$$aCasajús, J.A.$$uUniversidad de Zaragoza
000118279 700__ $$aMontero-Marin, J.
000118279 7102_ $$11006$$2245$$aUniversidad de Zaragoza$$bDpto. Fisiatría y Enfermería$$cÁrea Educación Física y Depor.
000118279 773__ $$g37, 7 (2022), 656-658$$pSci. sports$$tScience and Sports$$x0765-1597
000118279 8564_ $$s337531$$uhttps://zaguan.unizar.es/record/118279/files/texto_completo.pdf$$yVersión publicada
000118279 8564_ $$s2123265$$uhttps://zaguan.unizar.es/record/118279/files/texto_completo.jpg?subformat=icon$$xicon$$yVersión publicada
000118279 909CO $$ooai:zaguan.unizar.es:118279$$particulos$$pdriver
000118279 951__ $$a2024-03-18-15:55:29
000118279 980__ $$aARTICLE