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<dc:dc xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:invenio="http://invenio-software.org/elements/1.0" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc/ http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc.xsd"><dc:identifier>doi:10.1016/j.scispo.2022.01.004</dc:identifier><dc:language>eng</dc:language><dc:creator>Bergua-Gómez, P.</dc:creator><dc:creator>Gomez-Bruton, A.</dc:creator><dc:creator>Casajús, J.A.</dc:creator><dc:creator>Montero-Marin, J.</dc:creator><dc:title>A new performance threshold in sport climbing: A change in how climbing trainers work?</dc:title><dc:identifier>ART-2022-129556</dc:identifier><dc:description>Objectives: Previous research has shown that the finger flexor's occlusion threshold (OT) could be different among sport climbers when expressed as a percentage of their maximum finger force (OT%), and that there is no association between the OT% and the climberś ability level. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the possible association between the relative finger force applied at the OT% (rff-OT%) and climbing ability level. Equipment and methods: WWe approximated the finger flexor's OT of 34 sport climbers by finger hang endurance test analyses at different intensities between 35% and 85% of their individual maximum finger force on a previously individually adapted edge depth, and we valued their rff-OT% as the relative force they could perform at that intensity. Results: We found a high correlation between the rff-OT% and climbing ability in elite climbers. These findings suggest that having an OT at the highest possible percentage is critical, in addition to having a high relative finger force, as this would enable climbers to express relative force at a wider range of intensities with favorable metabolic conditions.</dc:description><dc:date>2022</dc:date><dc:source>http://zaguan.unizar.es/record/118279</dc:source><dc:doi>10.1016/j.scispo.2022.01.004</dc:doi><dc:identifier>http://zaguan.unizar.es/record/118279</dc:identifier><dc:identifier>oai:zaguan.unizar.es:118279</dc:identifier><dc:relation>info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/ES/ISCIII/CP21-00080</dc:relation><dc:identifier.citation>Science and Sports 37, 7 (2022),  656-658</dc:identifier.citation><dc:rights>by</dc:rights><dc:rights>http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/es/</dc:rights><dc:rights>info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess</dc:rights></dc:dc>

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