118279 20240319081018.0 doi 10.1016/j.scispo.2022.01.004 sideral 129556 ART-2022-129556 eng Bergua-Gómez, P. A new performance threshold in sport climbing: A change in how climbing trainers work? 2022 Access copy available to the general public Unrestricted Objectives: Previous research has shown that the finger flexor's occlusion threshold (OT) could be different among sport climbers when expressed as a percentage of their maximum finger force (OT%), and that there is no association between the OT% and the climberś ability level. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the possible association between the relative finger force applied at the OT% (rff-OT%) and climbing ability level. Equipment and methods: WWe approximated the finger flexor's OT of 34 sport climbers by finger hang endurance test analyses at different intensities between 35% and 85% of their individual maximum finger force on a previously individually adapted edge depth, and we valued their rff-OT% as the relative force they could perform at that intensity. Results: We found a high correlation between the rff-OT% and climbing ability in elite climbers. These findings suggest that having an OT at the highest possible percentage is critical, in addition to having a high relative finger force, as this would enable climbers to express relative force at a wider range of intensities with favorable metabolic conditions. info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/ES/ISCIII/CP21-00080 info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess by http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/es/ 1.1 2022 SPORT SCIENCES 80 / 87 = 0.92 2022 Q4 T3 0.28 2022 Orthopedics and Sports Medicine 2022 Q3 Sports Science 2022 Q4 1.4 2022 info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion Gomez-Bruton, A. Universidad de Zaragoza (orcid)0000-0002-0520-1640 Casajús, J.A. Universidad de Zaragoza (orcid)0000-0002-7215-6931 Montero-Marin, J. 1006 245 Universidad de Zaragoza Dpto. Fisiatría y Enfermería Área Educación Física y Depor. 37, 7 (2022), 656-658 Sci. sports Science and Sports 0765-1597 337531 http://zaguan.unizar.es/record/118279/files/texto_completo.pdf Versión publicada 2123265 http://zaguan.unizar.es/record/118279/files/texto_completo.jpg?subformat=icon icon Versión publicada oai:zaguan.unizar.es:118279 articulos driver 2024-03-18-15:55:29 ARTICLE