Factores de Rendimiento en la Escalada Deportiva y Escalada en Bloque: Revisión Sistemática

López Laval, Isaac (Universidad de Zaragoza) ; Sitko, Sebastian (Universidad de Zaragoza)

Resumen: Objectives: This systematic review aimed to analyze all the available information on the main performance factors in sport climbing and bouldering and to provide a science-based document for coaches, athletes and researchers. Methods: A search within four different databases was conducted with the words “Sport Climbing” and “Athletic Performance” and “Bouldering” and “Athletic Performance”. The results of the search were assessed with the inclusion and exclusion criteria, which included all types of published studies performed on healthy adolescent and adult men and women that studied the different performance factors in climbing and bouldering. Results: 33 studies met the inclusion and exclusion criteria. Specific forearm and finger flexor strength, re-oxydation capacity of the local muscles, general upper body strength and an optimal power to weight ratio seem crucial for performance. Psychological factors such as stress control and previsualization may also play an important role. Cardiorespiratory fitness found in climbers is similar to what is usually found in other intermittent sports. Finally, anthropometric factors are not as important as usually reported in general literature. Isaac López Laval y Sebastian Sitko. (2019) Factores de Rendimiento en Escalada Deportiva y Escalada En Bloque: Revisión Sistemática. Rev Entren Deport 33(3). 2 Conclusions: Although several confounding factors were present, there was general agreement upon the importance of several strength, endurance, anthropometric, cardiorespiratory and psychological factors as keys in performance enhancement in sport climbing and bouldering.

Idioma: Español

Año: 2019

Publicado en: RED. Revista de entrenamiento deportivo 33, 3 (2019), [10 pp]
ISSN: 1133-0619

Originalmente disponible en: Texto completo de la revista

Tipo y forma: Article (PostPrint)

Área (Departamento): Área Didáctica Expres.Corporal (Dpto. Expres.Music.Plást.Corp.)
Área (Departamento): Área Educación Física y Depor. (Dpto. Fisiatría y Enfermería)